A safe way to remove weeds is to take hold of them at the base and then pull up slowly. Avoid tugging too harshly because you don’t want to remove only part of the weed while leaving the roots firmly in the ground. If the roots or even just parts of the roots remain, the weed will continue growing. So instead, you want to remove the entire weed.
If you have, then this article is for you. Having the perfect lawn doesn’t have to be something that only belongs to your neighbors. By following our tips, the grass can be greener on your side, too.
It isn’t uncommon for people to use mulch to assist in the spreading of grass seeds. It is not problematic to use mulch, but you need to select the right kind of mulch. It is vital to steer clear from using hay mulch.
2. Individually remove weeds
It is crucial that you follow the correct practices to keep your seedlings healthy. This includes keeping your seedlings watered and fed. You should always avoid cutting them too early or too short. By providing the best possible beginning to your seedings, you make it very challenging for weeds to invade.
Sometimes no matter how hard you have tried, weeds invade that vulnerable space of newly planted grass. Most gardeners deal with weeds at some point, so it is beneficial to know how to deal with weeds. There are a few strategies that can be implemented. The most important of these are:
One of the most important things you need to do with newly seeded lawn patches is to give enough water. You need to wet the soil down, reaching at least 6 to 8 inches. However, take care not to water too harshly as it can lead to washing new seeds away or creating puddles.
Unrooting the Issue Before it Begins
Your seedlings should be at least 4 inches before you mow them. It is better to wait until the soil is dry before mowing. This will help prevent the tearing up of new turf. Also be sure that your mower is set to the correct setting. You don’t want your seedlings to be shorter than 3 inches.
Be sure to examine the label when working with weed killers carefully. It will specify the waiting time between the weed killer application and germination. It is essential to stick to the waiting time to avoid damage to your lawn.
Personally, I like to go organic/slow-release with my regular lawn fertilizer so I’d follow-up what you’ve done with something along those lines. I like Milorganite, Purely Organic Lawn Food, or Espoma’s organic lawn fertilizer – any of those will work well for you. Follow the application rate on the bag, and if you want to get an accurate square footage size on different areas of your lawn, these tools can help you do that.
Unlike many other weed and feed products, this fertilizer does not harm new grass as it germinates, but it does (at least in my experience) successfully block crabgrass and other common weeds for 4-6 weeks to give your new grass time to establish itself. One bag goes a long way too.
For cool-season lawns I like to do my final fertilizer application of the year (fall lawn food) in late October or Early November. Since you’re pretty far north I’d say any time between now and the end of the month is fine.
If your grass is growing well I’d probably hold off and give it a shot in the arm with one of the organic fertilizers I mentioned above in the article. I would apply it after you do the first mow, once your grass is 3″ or taller. Bag those clippings, then feed it with the slow-release fertilizer. At this time of year a fall fertilizer is a good alternative to those I mentioned above (though they’ll work fine as well). Some of the fall lawn fertilizers have some extra phosphorus to help with root development, which may help since you skipped the starter fertilizer with that.
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Start by weeding the area that you will be planting in, then gently rake the top layer of soil to loosen it.
In late spring and early summer, if your lawn has been a little bit neglected and needs a boost then you can apply a slow-release fertilizer in 45 to 60 day intervals.
Fertilizing with nitrogen before snow can create snow mold and kill your lawn which landscaper Roger Cooke discusses in the video below:
My Recommended Starter Fertilizer for New Grass
Using a dark, rich, and loose compost at least once every three or four years in the early fall can increase the nutrients in your soil naturally.
Thanks for the comment and I’m so glad your new lawn is coming in well. If you’re having good results based on their advice I’d probably recommend you stick with it. 6 Weeks after you applied starter fertilizer sounds right to me.